Andrew Bunney / Derek Ridgers In Print

Saturday, 25 February 2012 Comments Off

I want to do a newspaper, Bunney said. We were sitting in the Albion Cafe on Redchurch, drinking coffee. It was about 11 in the evening. I fancy doing something special to go with the new jewellery collection, he said. I've been speaking to Derek Ridgers about his photography - he's agreed to be involved. How would you like to interview him?
Bunney had me at newspaper. Loaded with a history that becomes more meaningful as we rely less and less on it as a medium, there's something magical about newsprint and bespoke newspapers. The work of Derek Ridgers is perfect for this. He takes classical portraiture - traditionally the reserve of the Establishment and trains his lens on members of the anti-establishment.
These are non-judgemental, unapologetic images in many ways informed by the kind of documentary photography usually found in newspapers.Three decades after they were taken and they still resonate. A rough, often violent and subversive world, the images reveal a definition of street culture which is the total opposite to how we understand the term today.
Interviewing Ridgers a few days later, it occurred to me that as street style becomes increasingly mediated and consumer-based, these images themselves are becoming more and more meaningful - just like the paper they're printed on.



Dexys new look: exclusive photo

Tuesday, 21 February 2012 Comments Off

Each Dexys album is underscored by a debate surrounding the look that accompanies it. The band have always managed to tap into something relevant and often sensitive with their clothes. It's a look, but it's also a kind of mirror - staring back as us, telling us something about style, masculinity, friendship, individuality...The forthcoming Dexys album, released over 27 years after the previous LP, is no exception.

Photographer Nigel Christian and myself took this shot for the current Jocks & Nerds Magazine feature. It's the one that got away - as a result, this is its first public viewing.  
Left to right: featured Dexys members: Kevin Rowland, Pete Williams and Mick Talbot.
check out: dexys

Ralph Lauren pays homage to...himself?

Saturday, 18 February 2012 Comments Off

His Spring Summer collection is a timely, trend-conscious nod to the forthcoming movie and a poignant reminder of the original. Even RalphLa's current imagery for the Purple Label is not a million miles away from the 1974 film adaptation of The Great Gatsby starring Robert Redford as Gatsby.
Providing the costume for the film, in fashion terms it's the moment Lauren's position as America's leading light was secured. With these memories and references, it's tempting to accuse him of paying homage to himself.
And why not? I hear you ask, if anyone is allowed to, surely it's RalphLa. I agree. On the other hand, maybe the kid who grew up inspired by glamourous Hollywood movies is simply doing what he's always done best.

ralph lauren /purple label

In A Silent Way/ Part 2: RadioLab

Monday, 6 February 2012 Comments Off

In pursuit of productive silence, I've been doing a lot of listening lately. Some of the most rewarding time has been spent listening to RadioLab. 
I may look like a geek but no science buff am I, and yet that hasn't stopped me locking into these science-based podcasts from New York. It's like that thing Sesame Street does with maths and the alphabet but instead of Ernie and Bert (or Frank Oz and Jim Henson) we have these two guys - Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich - introducing a whole world of guests and getting deep into topics like our capacity for evil and whether or not Marvel's Xmen should in the real world be categorised as human. 
Not only are the subjects nuts and compelling, like totally unexpected, but the way in which they're explored - as fast paced stories with twists, turns and false endings galore - makes them incredibly dramatic and fun to listen to. 


Today's episode was brought to you by RADIO LAB.

A Commercial Break: Levi's Advert late 60's

Friday, 3 February 2012 Comments Off

Love this Levi's ad from the late 1960's.  In the States integration was still a relatively abstract concept so brands often created ads for a specifically black market. Check the Afro, short and pressed hairstyles rocked by these Harlem hipsters. Given the politics inherent in black hairstyles, this ad is much more diverse than it initially seems. 
In America Levi's Sta Prest slacks were introduced in 1964. They were adopted by mods in Britain soon after.  Levi's Sta Prest later became synonymous with Skinheads or Peanuts as they were probably called at the time. 

In A Silent Way/ Part 3: Ragtop Vintage - The Shop

Wednesday, 1 February 2012 Comments Off


No, it's not that new store in Mayfair everyone seems to be talking about, it's Pendleton Dave's new venture, just off Redchurch Street.  He opened the store with little if any fanfare, just a simple flyer with the address and a bit of supporting detail. 
After the success of his vintage installation in Out Of Town, seems he developed a taste for a fixed abode, a place he could hang his many splendid hats, jackets and sweatshirts - some of which are way too valuable and rare to leave exposed to the elements on his regular Thursday stall in Spitalfields. 
While Mondays are by appointment only, he's open the rest of the week as standard. He's been there a month or so and a fair number of his Spitalfields regulars have been heading there on an almost daily basis as if it's their own private outfitters. Now there’s an idea. 



Lloyd Johnson: The Modern Outfitter

Thursday, 26 January 2012 Comments Off





Some names transcend generations and mean different things to different people. To me it was that cool, somewhat intimidating shop selling amazing Hawaiian and fifties shirts, pleated trousers in candy and pop colours, biker boots and leather jackets at the far end of the Kings Road - that open air catwalk of unscripted style. I’d walk its length - from Sloan Square Tube towards Worlds End - passing the Chelsea Barracks, the punks on the park bench, then looking into the antique market, R Soles, Woodhouse, Boy and Flip and American Classics as I made my journey down what was to me an unmatchable fashion parade. These mannequins would occupy the windows of the my final destination, Johnson's.
But going to this new exhibition featuring Lloyd Johnson's archive isn’t (just) a nostalgia trip, it’s a celebration of taste and a kind of creative resistance which provided an antidote to the various mainstream attitudes of the seventies, eighties and beyond.
An unsung hero of British style culture this is both timely and way over due. Few people can claim to connect the dots between Britain's dirty bikers (no offence Dave C.) and America's best dressed man, Fred Astaire, or between a young Siouxsie Sioux and Liza Minneli (of indeterminate age), or between the maverick Tom Waits and sharp dressed modernists like Phil (Stedy) Stedman and Harry the Pencil. From Billy Fury to The Clash, Lloyd Johnson has a story to tell and the pictures to prove it.  
Curated by Mr Paul Gorman, it's no surprise that this is a complete and comprehensive show. Itself an exercise in style, Lloyd Johnson: The Modern Outfitter is relevant not just to folks wishing to stroll down memory lane, but to anyone with an interest in one of Britain's most important style visionaries.

Lloyd Johnson: The Modern Outfitter, Chelsea College of Art & Design, London SW1. Thro 'til March 3rd.


In A Silent Way/Part 8: Incase

Saturday, 21 January 2012 Comments Off

So we're at the airport - waiting in the lounge for the plane back to London. It's mid afternoon. Slow. Quiet. A small lobby with nothing to do. It's just a few feet away from the passport and hand luggage check, which is way less intense than the ones at Heathrow, but still requires you remove hats, coats, coins - and for some reason - your laptop  from its bag.
Our plane is late.  We chat, watch the clock and relax. Then we hear a huge bang! followed by this almost primal, guttural moan. We look  back towards the luggage check just behind us - a young woman, hair pulled back, dressed neat and business-like is picking her laptop up from the concrete floor. A tense silence  falls over the whole lobby as everyone registers the likely consequence of what has just happened.
Note to self:  Those new Incase laptop covers you saw at Bread and Butter? Get one.


goincase.com
www.hideoutstore.com/

In A Silent Way/Part 6: Wood Wood Windsor coat

Friday, 20 January 2012 Comments Off

Always loved Wood Wood, ever since I first saw their stuff in Goodhood all those years back. They're clever. And they're funny. And they have conversations with each other and their crew that we get to overhear via their designs. 
Caught a glimpse of the forthcoming collection a couple of days ago. This is Laust wearing Wood Woods new Windsor coat. 
It's based on the classic MA1 bomber jacket and uses the same classic olive green and orange colourway.
He asked me to keep quiet about it 'til they had their catwalk show on Wednesday. A top secret military style embargo; very apt I thought.


woodwood

In A Silent Way

Wednesday, 18 January 2012 Comments Off

Not posted for a while. Some people have asked why. Why the silence. There's always a place for the occasional pause - like a prolonged intake of breath. The suspended moment usually elects itself, finds its own beginning and end - naturally. 
Right now I'm trying to keep my head down in Berlin - attending Bread and Butter for a couple of days; travelling light and eating heavy.
First things first, lunch at Rosens - best burgers in town.

Rosenburger: Brunnenstr. 196, 10119, Berlin
U: Rosenthaler Platz

Garmsville Exclusive: Margaret Howell MHL opens in East London - tomorrow

Friday, 2 December 2011 Comments Off


For those who know, Old Nichol Street is a secret street - a quiet shortcut between Shoreditch High Street and Brick Lane. It’s the one you walk down when you're looking to avoid all the cool kids on Redchurch Street, with which it runs parallel.
 As from tomorrow, however, those days are over.
While there's a mass of hype and bill-poster size attention being stirred up around the opening of Box Park this Saturday, a few really switched-on folks’ll be heading down a road less travelled, making their way to the first ever stand-alone MHL store in the UK and the very first fashion shop on Old Nichol Street.
The MHL brand, concentrating on Howell’s more utility centred apparel and product, retains the same understated qualities found within the main line. It’s already hugely popular in Japan. It’s been around for about six or seven years - growing gradually as a range each year. The forthcoming collection will see its UK offering and therefore the shops inventory broaden even further.
This weekend will be what the brand prefers to call a soft opening, hoping to keep the store relatively under wraps 'til the full launch which is planned for next year.


All things considered, the MHL store is unlikely to stay much of a secret for long. But remember, if anyone asks, you never heard it from me.


19 Old Nichol Street London E2

"Close Up and Private For CoSTUME NATIONAL" A Subjective Response

Monday, 28 November 2011 Comments Off

CoSTUME NATIONAL and CoNSCIOUS clocked what a lot of people failed to notice; that the work of Sergei Sviatchenko is first and above all that of an abstract artist, a collage artist, and a modern artist. Fashion, yeah, he loves, but it also provides him with a context to explore and play with stuff way beyond fit, fabric and trend.
It has a lot to do with the relationship between memory and inspiration, I feel. It's about not allowing memory to collapse into nostalgia, but using it as a building block with which to relate to the present. 
Visually, this notion lends itself easily to the (seemingly) abstract, allowing memories to impact on things that might otherwise be viewed objectively as separate or unrelated. Essentially, our most potent memories are the enemy of common sense.
They force us to perceive stuff in random ways, making us associate things on a personal level in ways that defy accepted logic. It's this process, which seems to be played out in Sviatchenko's response to the current collection by CoSTUME NATIONAL.
As he says of the works theme and title: The Beetles News. 
Beetles - it's not a mistake. I felt like a beetle - to come, to see and fly away. The Beatles Live in Milano 1965 was the strongest inspiration for the project.
The viewer is rewarded with new ways of seeing the familiar by exploring images where the objects have become detached (literally and symbolically) from their common-sense definitions.
Very much like listening to a piece of jazz – the narrative or rhythm is grounded but it’s punctuated and overridden by a spontaneity which makes the familiar fresh and other-worldly.
And like listening to jazz, the quality of the audience's attention here is an active not passive one. The work demands that the viewer interact with it’s internal drama in a non-linear way. In doing so the viewer can make their own connections,  perhaps triggering their own memories on some subtle level.
Celebrating subjectivity, maybe the gift of Sergei Sviatchenko's work is to encourage us to experience other aspects of the real world on a similarly personal, non-prescriptive premise.

Northern Soul: A Film

Tuesday, 22 November 2011 Comments Off

Wild Bill explores redemption and the dark side of a city. Northern Soul is about people searching for - and finding - the light.
Still at funding stage, the film's director Elaine Constantine looks to capture the sense of euphoria and belonging she experienced in Northern Soul clubs as a kid.
Set in the mid 70's it focuses on two clubbers who discover an underground dance scene called Northern Soul and in doing so test themselves and their friendship.

Part rites of passage, part social commentary, part historical re-enactment, all heart; this film promises to be an upful exploration of a much underrated moment in British youth culture.
Let's dance.


for more info: northernsoulthefilm.com
facebook.com/northernsoulthefilm

Wild Bill - Straight out of Stratford

Friday, 18 November 2011 Comments Off

Director of Wild Bill, Dexter Fletcher is proper people. Bumped into him and Mr Mark Haddon a couple of months ago. Mark insisted Dexter show me a clip of the film on his phone. 
This won't do it justice, he said. Maybe not, but  it looked incredible, anyhow. Wild Bill is about the non-hipster side of the East End, real frontier territory,



http://www.wildbillthefilm.com/




Smokin' Joe:RIP

Wednesday, 9 November 2011 Comments Off

Joe Frazier.
January 12, 1944 - November 7, 2011.

James Brown: NKU

Thursday, 3 November 2011 Comments Off

On tour. Each night, before a gig Mr Brown will spend two hours with his private hairdresser  - one among an entourage of 38 people - preparing his do.Then, from a travelling wardrobe including 75 suits and 45 pairs of shoes he will select his attire for that evenings performance.
If possible, he'll also take some time out to deal with the avalanche of mail he receives each week from fans all over the world.


James Brown circa 1965, Never Knowingly Underdressed.

Followers