Archive for February 2009

Engineered Garments: The Virtue of Excess

Saturday, 28 February 2009 Comments Off

Many of us like to wear clothes which go beyond our daily needs. It's like wearing an Omega Speedmaster - although we have no immediate plans of taking a trip to the moon we'd like to feel confident that if the occasion should arise what we wear will hold us in good stead - there and back...

Engineered Garments, the New York based menswear brand seem to intuitively understand this male trait, producing classically inspired clothing loaded with construction detail and tailoring. It's part of the brands ethos to create clothing which goes beyond the wearers daily requirements - deftly combining a romance (who said men can't be romantic?) for military, work and sports wear with an attention to detail that borders on the extreme. 

Take this amazing wing jacket as an example. It's made of 100% cotton twill. It features diamond elbow patches, double press studs at the hem, reinforced lower back paneling and marbled buttons. The back has been designed to allow extra mobility at the shoulders, there's two large button-fastened pockets at the front and cotton ribbing on the waist, collar and cuffs...all in a tasteful desert khaki. As part of their ability to create great menswear, Engineered Garments have turned technical excess into a virtue. 

Engineered Garments Spring/Summer 09 Collection, www.oipolloi.com  

What's with the coat, Columbo?

Friday, 27 February 2009 Comments Off

Ever wondered why Lieutenant Columbo insists on wearing that damn mac whatever the weather? It's generally assumed that Columbo's coat is a meaningless quirk, at best a visual distraction concealing the real nature of this super-smart detective. Truth be told, his mac - cream, creased and sweat-stained - is a semiotic minefield full of resonance and heritage. Like a mono-colour dream coat, it tells us not only about the man but also something about America’s cultural landscape.

On a personal tip, the coat is a kind of uniform; a show of his true allegiance. Columbo is first and foremost an outsider. His working-class roots are displayed, literally, on his sleeve. Surrounded by LA's well-to-do - the people who make Hollywood pop - he wears his coat like a rebels badge of honour or a shield, protecting him against the hail of La La Land bullshit which he has to confront everyday on the job.
Like the actors and Hollywood fakers Columbo has to interact with, he too dons a mask when at work, an on-screen costume. 'In it' but not 'of it', there he is in the city of dreams... the coat lets us know that it's his job to contend with the sordid world lying just beneath Hollywood’s glamourous surface. For Columbo, it's always raining.

His mac is also an essential part of the Columbo Art of Detective Work - a totally functional device. His bend-over backwards deference is so extreme it's impossible to deflect...just one more thing, he says, catching his suspects off-guard, casually throwing them a noose in the guise of an unintended life-line. Just one more thing, sir, he says, stopping at the doorway... Just one more thing ma'am, he says, having already made his initial exit.
In some ways, the coat like the man is also part of the great American pilgrimage to the West; a transplant from the East Coast to the promised land of California, where the sun shines brightly and dreams can and do come true. Like so many easterners, heading west, Columbo sees that this paradise at close proximity is anything but sweet and pure...Like Dorothy’s ruby slippers, the coat , if not actually capable of taking Columbo back to his own slice of Kansas, is at least a relic, a reminder of his former home. Perhaps it triggers off in him a New York state of mind.
Historically, he’s not the only detective to have a deep-rooted attachment to the trench coat. Enter Americas greatest gumshoes of them all, Sam Spade and another LA inhabitant Phillip Marlowe, for whom the wardrobe of resistance, the anti-hero costume is the double-breasted trench coat. The mono-tone, hard boiled poets of the noir movie and pulp novel have inspired everyone from Goddards’ Alphaville, Parks’ Shaft and Moore’s Rorschach. Columbo, in his own way carries the gumshoe mantle,  the reconstructed tough guy who’s mild demeanor allows his prey to imagine him clumsy and baffoon-like. A soft touch. Big mistake.

Portrait Of The Artist

Thursday, 26 February 2009 Comments Off


Spent a few days last week in Amsterdam; to coin a great Tom Waits line,  it was colder than a well-diggers ass/ Colder than a well-diggers ass. We were shooting a story for Code. The forthcoming issue is focused on contemporary art, so I figured it would be a nice idea to pull together different types of artists, dress 'em up and get them to collaborate on one big piece. We'd take portraits of them and then shoot documentary-type pictures to show off the clothes and the artists in action. 

The magazines producer, Nadine, did the hard part; convincing the artists to do it, finding the location. She also got a ton of clothes together to complement the ones I'd selected in London. My job was then to do the styling and whatnot. It was a fun two days with one exception: the disused factory - with huge windows and concrete floors over-looking the river  - had no heating. Like NO HEATING. Apparently, according to Peter, Codes editor, it was warmer in the street outside the building. 

I suspect the adverse conditions might have affected the quality of the collaboration somewhat. Thankfully, I don't think it harmed the quality of Ulrike Biets photography.

Sebego do Rugged Ivy

Tuesday, 24 February 2009 Comments Off


It brings to mind the Free&Easy term Rugged Ivy. A kind of  hybrid, it combines a moccasin toe, a chukka boot upper, a deck shoe sole and a work boot attitude.  To my thinking Sebego, so often overshadowed by the likes of Sperry and Bass, have got a potential hit on their...hands. With a variety of finishes including full grain leather and wax, it's  called the Lighthouse and is part of the Sebego Docksides collection.  Available from May.  

www.sebego.com

What!? Karen Binns

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The ebb and flow, the clash of trends, the inside track on designers and models, what girls want from an amazing dress and what guys need from a great suit...For all this and more, just  ask Karen. 

In the music industry she has a rep for styling strong female artists - giving them a 3 dimensional, evolving image which both amplifies the artists personalty while at the same time avoids anything predictable. Just look at her work with the likes of Tori Amos, Bebel Gilberto and most recently Estelle. The JC Report recently called Karen one of the more fashion forward people in the business...and that's putting it mildly.

Having worked on a number of style and fashion publications - she helped launch both True (later to become Trace) and Untold Magazine - she knows a thing or two about the print media too. With her own totally independent publication WHAT, she consciously goes against trend and sets her contributors the task of telling a story through as few pages as possible. 

In an industry so quick to diss any genuine risk takers, it's refreshing to see that not only has she taken that potentilally hazardous leap of producing her own magazine she's also stayed true to herself, producing something elegant, smart and funny.  

The latest issue of WHAT has just come out: to use one of Karens favorite words, it's fierce!

introducing Radical Boulevard: Act 1

Monday, 23 February 2009 Comments Off





The t-shirt of course is the ultimate street art canvas...Look no further for proof of this than the brand new, London based anti Pie, anti establishment, anti Obama inspired label Radical Boulevard with their compelling, limited edition tees. This is the very first in the series: Act 1.

According to the designer: I communicate 'you are what you watch' through my designs and provide a refreshing rendition of what life means to me through unbrainwashed eyeballs. I will not be a victim of the media, television, propaganda and my friend's really sexy mum. That's what embodies what Radical Boulevard is about without really being about that.


givehateachanceonlythenwillyoulove.blogspot.com
radicalboulevard@yahoo.co.uk

1948: Changing the Game.

Sunday, 22 February 2009 Comments Off




Marshall McLuhan's concept of cold media comes to mind when thinking about the new incarnation of Nike's 1948 space. Unlike most boutique/pop-up spaces where it's all spelt out and made user-friendly, this space requires mass intervention for it to realize its full potential. For a start you have to find it. Just a few doors down from Shoredich Studios it's on Bateman's Row; reachable via Shoredich High Street or Curtain Road and yet somehow hidden from the main thoroughfare of both.  Geographically it's been designed as a stand-alone destination point.

Inside, but for a few dramatically placed graphics,  the standard visual signifiers of sportswear and sports lifestyle have been abandoned: this is some next level shit.  The majority of the space might have been dedicated to retail but instead it's been left open - the reserve of Charlie Darks' Run Dem Crew or maybe  a film or match screening,  a workshop or a fixed gear gathering. This Tuesday sees the start of the Rum Dem Crew spring/summer sessions. 

The actual racking system - the clothes rails -  like the rest of the interior has been designed by Oscar and Ben Wilson. They've created a modular system which can not only be reconfigured in an almost infinite number of ways, but is also designed to facilitate bleacher type seating. 

Beneath your feet are the remnants of a million pairs of old Nike shoes, recycled to create a spongy, almost familiar feeling surface. Look up and you'll see an epic neon installation - the NSWE logo within the key-lines of a football pitch. The walls are black: the complete antithesis of corporate glitz and over-cooked branding. The clothes include not only the the latest NSW collection but also other tier zero product (that's Nike's really cool stuff to you and me), and a selection of hand-picked Nike vintage - both shoes and apparel.  

The staff, recruited over a period of months are one of the spaces greatest assets. Sussed, informed and involved in all sorts of creative and sporting ventures of they're own - to them working in a space like this is just a logical extension of what they're passionate about anyway. 

This space is so different it could be viewed as a radical retail experiment. There are no other Nike stores like this in the world. It's also a kind of social experiment. It's been designed so that the consumer creates the core content and brings the space to life.  

And so, with the opening 1948, cold has the potential to become the new cool. For the world of retail, anxiety-ridden by on-line shopping and the profit-crushing recession, this is a timely wake up call. For Shoreditch,  a tale of too many cities  - with hipsters and trust-fund trendies on one side and working class kids and the rest on the other all inhabiting the same environment but living completely different lives, this is perhaps one space where real diversity has a chance to flourish.  

Let's hope it works.

RedDot: raw in more ways than one

Tuesday, 17 February 2009 Comments Off




Even when he was an A&R man looking after Jamiroquai, The Brand New Heavies and his brother, Barney's band Samuel Purdey, Kieron Hurley was recognised as one of the best dressers in town. For many he was the bench-mark, the sartorial site-map for what to wear next. He was a denim obsessive before most of his peers realised there was any denim to be obsessed about.

And so it was no surprise when he announced that he was launching his own clothing brand...a combination of two Hurley traits: a love of twisted humour and a pin-sharp appreciation of style. Working with co-founder and fellow music industry insider, Charlie Caplowe, RedDot arrived fusing a Japanese inspired fascination for high quality street-wear and a twisted, distinctly British humour.   

Hence, using the finest graphic delivery and finish, the most tasteful denim was paired with some of the least tasteful slogans.  Two early classics featured the Star Wars logo warped to say Start Wars and the Kiss logo twisted into the word PISS. Both were proudly emblazoned on a premium quality, Japanese made sweatshirt. A pair of jeans made from 14 ounce raw denim featured a photo-real graphic of a handgun sticking out of the back pocket. PC it ain't; it's the humour of Derek and Clive writ large in one-word sentences. 

Now in it's tenth year, with Hurley solo at the helm, RedDot is still one of the most authentically British and best made brands around. Here's a preview of some of the labels Spring/Summer collection...including new takes on RedDot favs and some fresh designs too. 

www.reddotclothing.com

Let the Sun Shine In

Saturday, 14 February 2009 Comments Off



The other day Mandi read out-loud some lines from the song Aquarius from the musical Hair.

When the moon is in the Seventh House
And Jupiter aligns with Mars
Then peace will guide the planets
And love will steer the stars

That's Saturday
, she said. That alignment happens on Saturday - Valentines Day.

(Maybe this is why there's so much upheaval around right now, I thought. Maybe this economic depression and what-not is to shift our focus away from material stuff and more to the spiritual, to stuff that's really important).

Yesterday, Paul Bradshaw from Straight No Chaser and Edge fame put me in touch with Neil Spencer - erstwhile Chaser and Face Magazine contributor, editor of NME and now the Observers astrologer. I asked him if there was any validity in the verse Mandi read out.

There's a little section in my about this Hair verse, he said, pointing out that Jupiter aligns with Mars several times a year, and the Moon is in SOMEONE's 7th house every moment of every day.

However, your missus gets brownie points for reading the forecast accurately, because Jupiter and Mars are currently conjunct in Aquarius. And, as I said, it's a kind of mini Aquarian age this month and year.

When I told Mandi what Neil had said, she smiled that smile. Here's the sunshine, I thought. Let the sun shine in.

www.neilspencer.co.uk
www.lyricstime.com/5th-dimension-aquarius-let-the-sunshine-in-lyrics

Wayne Snooze

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This is Wayne. He's an artist and graphic designer who has a sleeping brand called Snooze; it's soon to reawaken because although he enjoys the work & the money's cool, he's day job just isn't satisfying that creative itch...What's great about Waynes work is that as an artist he's a one-man dream team; from graffiti to comic books to portraits and even package design - it's always on-point.

Thanks to Mr Paz for locking down this picture and letting us converse outside his shop.

Check out Waynes work at www.myspace.com/ohzzzz

The Stansfield Line

Friday, 13 February 2009 Comments Off

A magazine needs to do a Duffer Family Tree and try and arrange a kinda family reunion while they're at it. The influence of the Duffer is pretty huge when you think not only about the stuff they introduced into the UK (the first time I saw Red Wings on sale in London was in their store, for example), but the people whoworked there and have since gone on to do their own thing.

So, I'm thinking about Dr Mandi Martin, who helped them out with patterns and assemblage way back when they were opening the Ladbroke Grove shop. She now has her own brand Glitter & Twisted; Kenneth, who went on to do his own brand 6876; Brett & Joseph, both of whom got head-hunted by A&F and are now designing in the States somewhere; Barrie K (one of the co-founders alongside Cliff , Marco and Eddie), who now does his own Sharpeye brand; Craig who went on to work for Michael Kopleman at Gimme 5 and is now the man over here for Billionaire Boys Club and BAPE...

It would include Dan Doyle, who went on to design for Japanese label Ships and has now returned to the Duffers as a designer; Mac, Steve, Neil B and Matt all of whom are still involved in the garms trade on their own tip.

Although I'm sure there are a number of names I've missed out, the Family Tree would certainly include the guy who made me think about all this today, Dom Stansfield. We met in The Butcher of Distinction this afternoon; Jimmy, the manager was talking me through the new delivery from Folk and in he came. Dom has a longstanding relationship with the BoD which has always been one of the best places to see the Stansfield collection.

While his previous venture Rushmore, with Matt, had a twisted Ivy feel about it (like the film of the same name), Stansfield takes a great deal of it's inspiration from the Calder Valley origins of the Stansfield name, creating clothing influenced by vintage rural work-wear and Doms' own fascination for utility-based detail.

If a magazine did do a Duffer Family Tree it would boast a pretty impressive succession of branches, not least because the likes of Dom Stansfield have gone on distinct and extremely individual directions all their own.

www.stansfieldonline.com

Ugly Love

Thursday, 12 February 2009 Comments Off

Here's a set from the aforementioned Ugly Kids Club shoot. The Ugly Love Tee is the first release from the 09 collection. It dropped today. Pictures by Robin Bharaj.

www.theuglykidsclub.com

The Puzzle of Darwin's New Stamps

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Ben Christie now runs his own design company, Magpie Studio, with partners Jamie and Tim. He was also part of the Hat Trick team responsible for this collection of super special stamps which came out today.

The stamps have been produced to mark the 200th anniversary of Darwin's birth and to commemorate the 150th year since the publication of On the Origin of the Species by Means of Natural Selection. He designed these six stamps to illustrate the breath of Darwin's study, he said. While most people associate Darwin with anthropology, his theory of evolution also encompasses botany, geology, zoology and ornithology.

Designing for such a small canvas is no mean feat. What makes these stamps even more compelling is the jigsaw devise which changes the actual shape of the stamps - illustrating brilliantly the interconnectedness of Darwin's revolutionary work. Die cutting is extremely rare when it comes to Royal Mail stamps, said Ben when I noticed their unique shape, but I thought it said allot about Darwin in a really nice way.

While in their studio, I also caught a glimpse of some work-in-progress; the great thing about Magpie is that they're not trying to reinvent the wheel at every opportunity. From what I see they just want to produce elegant and impactful work.

I asked Ben if he would autograph a pack of stamps for me; he looked puzzled by my request. Maybe he thought I was joking...Now, how cool is that, I thought.


www.royalmail.com
www.magpie-studio.com

Black Saddle Shoes by Resonate

Wednesday, 11 February 2009 Comments Off

Word is white bucks and saddle shoes are going to be big this summer...

Last summer Mick Talbot (of Style Council and Dexy's Midnight Runners fame), artist Tasha Amini and Dr Mandi Martin were all seen wearing them about town...

This pair, by Japanese brand Cause for Resonate,  is a great twist on the bobby soxer classic. It abandons the traditional red brick colour sole for a white work-boot style sole instead. The punched suede is a nice detail adding to the shoes essentially understated swagger. Cause, a severely tasteful shoe and sneaker brand launched in 1996 by Masuda Hiroaki has collaborated in the past with Stussy.

Back in 1958, a twelve year old kid called Bobby Pedrick Jnr had a minor hit in the States with a song called White Bucks and Saddle Shoes. Sample lyrics: White buck and saddle shoes... chinos and slacks of course...Button-down shirt and a crew-neck sweater...Crew-cut and ponytail...That's the style that's making the news, Ivy League at all at best In the north and south,  And the east and the west...Although it's over 50 years old, the lyrics seem like a prescription for a very contemporary wardrobe.

Ralph Lauren have always done amazing white bucks. Brooks Brothers produce great saddle shoes. John Simons have been known to do a great line in Walkover dirty bucks. There's sure to be new street style inspired versions popping up between now and the arrival of the heat wave, I mean the summer. 

Check out Bobby Pedrick Jnrs White Bucks and Saddle Shoes tune with visuals on youtube.com
The Resonate saddle shoes are available from the-glade.com

Who The Hell Is Lord Mesmo?

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Been seeing these weird posters about town lately...

Check Out The Ugly Kids Club

Monday, 9 February 2009 Comments Off


The Ugly Kids Club are a relatively new brand with strong graphics, a tight theme and a lot of friends. In keeping with the brand ethos (did you ever feel like an ugly kid when you were younger?) their logo features an elegant flying swan in ascent. They were shooting their Summer 09 collection this weekend in Ranx's Shoreditch Studios. 

We're looking to drop one T-shirt each month on our website 'til July and maybe check out some retail outlets this year too. Although we're shooting our collection now, we'll probably add some topical ones during the year as well, said Mark UKC who you may remember from Nike 1948 Space graf collab in September last year.   

Based on what I saw on Saturday, I have a sneaking suspicion this summer's gonna get really ugly. Can't wait.

www.myspace.com/theuglykidsclub

The White Collar Factories: A New Trend

Saturday, 7 February 2009 Comments Off


The other day David Rosen told me about an emerging trend he describes as the White Collar Factory. Businesses looking to relocate to new premises are asking more and more for buildings which still retain structural references of their former use - open plan, high ceiling, bare brick walls, concrete flooring, sky lights...

Where once it was the creative communities who looked to move into spaces which were essentially disused warehouses and factories, now commercial business, retail outlets, restaurants, galleries and financial organisations are looking  - with the aid of architects and designers - to set up house in disused industrial buildings. 

David Rosen is a real styler. When we're not talking about buildings and architecture we're discussing garms - from Brooks Brothers to Red Wings from Levi's Sta Press to vintage Type A 2 Flight Jackets. He also has an uncanny knack of locating these prize spaces. 

Rosen, as we call him, is a senior partner at Pilcher Hershman, probably the worlds coolest property specialists. You may not have heard of Pilcher Hershman, but you've probably found your way into one of their buildings. Among these you can count The Tea Buildings (including Shoreditch House and Mother), The Monsoon Building, The Wallace Collection, The Phillips du Pury Building, The Gagosian, The White Cube and The Sadie Coles Gallery. 

...kind of puts a whole new spin on the term trend-setter.

www.pilcherhershman.co.uk

Blackman's: Always On Point

Friday, 6 February 2009 Comments Off

It's early in the morning outside Blackman's on Cheshire Street. Despite it's rather low-fi appearance this is one of the hippest places in Shoreditch - and has been for at least forty years. For the past few summers people have been flocking to this unassuming spot looking for £5 plimsolls; the trend which has impacted on everyone from Top Shop to Adidas started right here.

Last summer the surrounding streets were riddled with discarded plimsolls. Kids would buy a new pair almost every week, change into them as they got 'round the corner and leave the old pair behind.

The blase attitude of the staff may be due in part the fact that having an influence over street style is something Blackman's have grown used to over the years. In the sixties Mods loved the tongue and tassel loafers they sold. They were the first shop to stock Monkey boots - a favorite of skinheads in the late sixties and early seventies. They also sold plastics - a favorite of seventies soul boys and punks. You could get George and Chelsea boots - favoured by warehouse clubbing stylers in the eighties and thick-soled brogues in the nineties...and a myriad of trends in-between. In fact they still run all these lines today.

This winter they've been doing a roaring trade in Doc Martens...a Blackman's perennial. Next summer someone with a bit of initiative could be doing a roaring trade in recycled plimsolls too...just follow the trail.

I Am Not A Number, I Am A Free Man!

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I feel sorry for the new production of The Prisoner; what a tough act to follow. 

The original, which began in 1967, was a tour de force - a groundbreaking series which combined absurdism with paranoia, science fiction with psychological meltdown. 

It was radical and extremely chic at the same time, uncompromising in virtually every respect; it's meaning, it's internal logic is still the source of heated argument. 

Partick McGoohan, who had previously starred in Danger Man, was not only the star of the series but also the executive producer, occasional director and brains behind it.

 It was conceived as a continuation in some ways from the Danger Man series, but went into the land of the surreal unlike any programme before or since.

It's hard to imagine that this was made at the tail-end of the so-called Swinging Sixties; a prime time British made TV series which seemed to be informed by everything from the works of Sartre, Samuel Beckett, Eugene Ionesco and Brecht's theatre of alienation.

It was unpredictable, sinister, funny, cool and tragic - like coming down from a very heady high.

The new US made series, which stars Ian McKellen as Number Two and Jim Caviezel as Six is still in production and will be launched in September. 

We're advised that it's less a remake and more a retelling of the story; this relieves the pressure somewhat without dimming the anticipation. 

It'll be interesting to see how they resolve the fact that many of the allegorical elements which made the original so compelling, if retained would likely proof the ruin of the remake.

And that's without taking the iconic wardrobe into account!

It's a shame that the great Patrick McGoohan, who sadly died last month, is no longer alive to see their efforts unfold.

Calling All Shawn Lee Completists

Thursday, 5 February 2009 Comments Off

The Shawn Lee completists are rubbing their hands together in anticipation of more epic releases from the US born, London based singer, composer and multi-instrumentalist.

First there's Soul In The Hole, which features Karime Kendra, Paul Butler (the Bees) and his wife ....

Then there's the much anticipated collaboration, a kind of left-field super group featuring Money Mark, Tommy Guerrero and Lee. Recorded in LA it's what Lee describes as chock full of psych funk madness.

And as if that wasn't enough, this September sees the release of the second Shawn Lee/ Clutchy Hopkins album. 

While all of these are released on Ubiquity Records, Mr Lee has had a rich and colourful release history, which over the years have given many a Lee completist a few sleepless nights.

From his first solo recording on Talking Loud - which was mysteriously shelved before it hit the record shops - to recordings on taste-lead labels such as We Love You, Rush! Japan, Grand Scheme and Soul Trader, Lee has released almost twenty records since 1996 - and that's not including the rare and in many cases limited edition singles! 

There are also Lee train-spotters who take great pleasure in pointing out where his tracks have appeared - for example on the TV programmes Damages, CSI, Lost and Desperate Housewives, the film Oceans 13 and TV commercials for Jaguar.

Although he's unafraid to wear his musical influences on his sleeve - his is a broad church including library music, jazz, gospel, soul, pop and electronica -  his incredible musicianship and ability to craft a great tune make him a true original of cult-like status. 

www.shawnlee.net
www.myspace.com/shawnleemusic

Mr Jules, Your Copy Of Free&Easy Has Arrived

Wednesday, 4 February 2009 Comments Off

Today I got the phone call I look forward every month. 

Hello Mr Jules, this is the Japan Centre Bookshop. Your copy of Free and Easy Magazine has arrived.

My response, usually involves words like thank you...brilliant... fantastic...ending with I'll see you very soon or, more often than not I'm on my way.

It's hard to conceal my enthusiasm for this magazine. 

OK so it's almost totally in Japanese, but for the odd name or line in English. 

OK so you can't really buy anything in the magazine; so many of the items are rare, the personal property of the collectors featured in the mag or only on sale in Japan based stores. 

OK so with the money I spend on the magazine looking at clothes I can't buy, I could actually spend on clothes I can buy instead. 

But that's missing the point, I reckon. 

The Dutiful Duffel Coat

Tuesday, 3 February 2009 Comments Off

Style is often nothing more than a direct reaction to - or should we say against -  fashion. 

The Pea coat has increasingly become the standard winter coat for many and consequently lost much of it's edge as a style statement.

As a result many people have adopted the Duffel as a fresh and predictable alternative.

Like the Pea coat the Duffel coat is a classic piece of wartime apparel with naval roots; a well made version is perfect for the most adverse weather.

From both  world wars,  it was a favoured item among the ban-the-bomb beatniks, the Paris 68 Student Riots and the Ivy Leaguers of the 70's. 

A stylistic high-point is the now rather dated 1971 film Carnal Knowledge starring Art Garfunkel and Jack Nicholson.

The Return of Samuel Purdey

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Ten years after the release of their album Musically Adrift, Samuel Purdey have a number one hit on their hands. 

A Japan based label recognised the unfulfilled potential of this great AOR inspired band and the LP resurfaced at the tail-end of last year. 

Picked up by Grey Dog Records, Musically Adrift has been re-mastered and features some previously unreleased material. 

The track Whatever I Do  has been number 1 on Japans' Kiss FM chart for a number of weeks; it's currently number 2 above the likes of Lily Allen, Franz Ferdinand and the Teriyaki Boys. 

Although the LP was released in Japan last week, questions such as whether it will come out in the UK and whether the band will be reforming remain unanswered...

www.myspace.com/samuelpurdey
www.greydogrecords.com

Time to break out the LaCrosse Pac Boots

Monday, 2 February 2009 Comments Off

While LL Bean do the definitive gumshoe (there's actually a FaceBook group dedicated the Bean boot!), these are part of  what LaCrosse call their Pac Boot line - a pull-on version with a 100% waterproof sole and a water resistant leather upper. 

The sole is also non-slip which, in this weather, works perfectly as long as you don't slip. So far so good.

Add to that 200 grams-worth of Thinuslate lining and you're good to go. 

LaCrosse is one of those little known (in the UK)  blue collar outfitters. They've been around in the US for over a 100 years.

They specialise mainly in functional footwear: work-wear boots for Monday to Friday and hunting boots for the weekend and holidays - you get the picture. 

Originally based in Wisconsin, they're now located in Oregon.

lacrossefootwear.com

Hudson's Bay Blankets: Made In England

Sunday, 1 February 2009 Comments Off



The history of the Hudson's Bay Company is integral to the the history of North America.

It's easy to assume that the Hudson's Bay Company has always been a long established Canadian based business specialising in iconic blankets and blanket coats, inspired by the indigenous Indian population.

But there's much more to the story of HBC than that. 

It was only when I found this beautiful HBC catalogue from the 40's that I began to realise this.

The seal was the trigger. Although I have blankets and garms by HBC, I'd never noticed until then that it said Made In England.

After a little research, it wasn't long before the whole story unravelled like a piece of loose thread; an epic and sometimes sordid tale.

Here's a few of the facts.

The Hudson's Bay Company is the oldest corporation in America and one of the oldest in the world.

It was founded by Prince Rupert of the Rhine a first cousin of King Charles II of England and a group of associates, and was Incorporated by British Royal Charter in 1670, as the Governor and Company of Adventurers of England Trading into Hudson's Bay

In short they were granted a trade monopoly over the whole region.

Before recognised nation states were established in what became North America, this band of adventures were via definition the areas governing body - at one point the largest land owner in the world. 

For a while it's major focus was the fur trade, which it controlled throughout the area in part by forging alliances with some of the indigenous peoples there. 

It was the original nations who did most of the hunting and trapping. 

In return for their pelts they were at times paid with blankets. 

Known as Hudson's Bay Point Blankets the company started marketing them in 1779,  altho' they'd been offering unpointed versions since 1670.

Indian trade with the Hudson's Bay Company and their bitter European rivals (notably the North West Company which was formed by a group of speculators in 1783) meant that by the 19th century virtually all the Indian groups in the region possessed modern firearms.  

Eventually the HBC and North West Company merged in 1821.

Many of HBC's European employee's came from Scotland and Ireland. 

From the very earliest days, the company's ships would stop off for supplies and to recruit labour. By  the late 18th Century three-quarters of the HBC workforce of around 500 men were indentured workers from the Orkney's. 

The role played by the indigenous women was essential to the survival and success of these men and the HBC itself. They were strong - in many instances it's said they had the strength of two men.  They knew how to cope with the often adverse conditions of the country. 

They knew the customs and the lay of the land. They made shoes for the employees - leather moccasins; ideal for the terrain, they allowed the employees to continues working. 

They were potential peace-keepers between the indigenous people and the HBC employees.

Many of them co-habited or formally married and became what was known as country women, their children known as half-breeds.

By the late 19th Century, HBC had become the largest private owner of Canadian soil, which acquired Dominion status from Britain in 1867. HBC later received £300,000 in return for relinquishing their monopoly over the region. 

From this point in time focus shifted more and more towards steamships and the development of department stores.

The Point Blanket is still made in England - currently manufactured by John Atkinson & Sons in Leeds. 

Woolrich is the exclusive distributor of the blanket in the US.

As for the colours of the classic Point Blanket, their significance has been attributed to the original peoples they first traded with: green, relating to new life, red for battle or hunt, yellow for harvest and blue for water.  


From blankets, jackets, overcoats and caps, like so many things we love about America, within each Hudson's Bay item are traces of the blood, sweat, tears and dreams that lie at the complex root of the country's modern history.

There's more info, including stuff about the British conflict with the French at:
wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson's_Bay_point_blanket
www.geocitites.comsoHo/Atrium/4832/hudson2.html
www.hbc.com/hbcheritage/history/blanket

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