Archive for June 2009

The Summer Of 1969: Kevin Rowland Reminisces

Friday, 26 June 2009 Comments Off

Dexy's Midnight Runners frontman Kevin Rowland talks about his memories of skinheads, reggae, racism and style...
By 1969 people had kind of stopped calling it ska and the term reggae was being used. I remember hearing tunes like 'Al Capone' by Prince Buster and 'Last Train to Skaville' and Judge Dred in 1968 and still being played in '69 - but the new music - stuff by The Pioneers and by Desmond Dekker for example was being called reggae. There was a point in '69 when I only used to buy reggae. I know it sounds ridiculous - that lasted a few months.

But that was the music, that was the music of the moment. It exploded in the summer of '69 before it was in the papers. At the time everybody had short hair, everybody was wearing button downs and there was a walk, a couple of different walks that summer.There is this perception that the skinheads at the time were all racist, but I think really it was a time of integration. It became really cool to be Jamaican - black kids, black guys became really, really cool in the eyes of white kids. Contrary to popular belief it was a real turning point among young people.
It seemed to be cool to have black kids around in the gang. I went to school in Willesden, although I was living in Harrow. Some of the Willesden mob came over to Harrow one time - a few of them. I knew them and one of the top boys came over to me and there were these black kids wearing hats, with a really small rim and white rain coats. By this time everybody had this style - it became a uniform - everybody had wing tip shoes or something like. He went, "Ah right, I didn't know you had spades here" - that's the kind of language he used - and he was kinda impressed. There were a few Jamaican kids in Harrow, but there was one kid in particular who was actually an African kid, his parents were African. His father I think was a doctor and he'd hang around with all the West Indian kids and before long he started talking in this Jamaican accent.
I think that contrary to the popular myth, there certainly wasn't any trouble between blacks and whites - I think there was probably more integration going on there than anything else.There was conflict though in other respects - I remember going over to Alperton once and getting beaten up by the Alperton mob just because we went into their area - and that was black kids and white kids.
The first proper article was the end of August, beginning of September and then, after that all through that autumn there were loads of stories and interviews with skinheads. It was quite exciting to begin with, then of course the second generation sprung up over night and they were everywhere. The Daily Mirror was the first time I saw the word 'skinhead' being used - it had a drawing of a skinhead - unfortunately it looked a bit like a 'numbskull.' They had like white T-shirts, red braces, blue jeans and boots - kinda like a bovver boy - a numbskull look really.
Nobody really wore just white T-shirts and braces and boots you know - I mean somebody might have worn that to work or something, but that would never have been considered a look. Boots weren't worn that often - they were worn, but I don't think it was about kicking people, it was about the shine of the leather - a clean look. Back then people wore suits to football matches - mohair suits. How did racism associated with skinheads come about..? The first thing that I heard, or read was about East London and a culture of 'Paki-bashing.' There was a lot friction between the Asians and whites there in that period.
This is just a theory, but anybody who was anybody in East London, West London, North London or South London had short hair and was wearing those clothes or something like those clothes at that time - so I'm not convinced that those racist attacks - which there were - were anything to do with the fact that the people perpetrating them wore short hair and American clothes. Some ‘skinheads’ were racist, some weren’t. Just like some ravers were racist, some weren’t. The newspaper reports of 'Paki bashing', were then followed by copy-cat racist attacks - no question about it. Having been born in Wolverhampton, and having moved here at the age of ten, I still supported Wolves. I'd go back and watch them play. I'd hang out with my cousins and people I knew there. I'd go up there with a friend from London maybe and they'd always be about a year behind clothes-wise - or more in those days.

After you started to read about 'Paki bashing' in the papers happening here in London I remember then reading about how a few skinheads went to a Pakistani pub in Wolverhampton and went to bash up all the Pakistanis there, too. I talked to my cousin about it and he said "yeah a couple of hundred skins went down to bash them up.’ Skins was a midland and northern term.  London kids never used it.  Most didn’t even like the term ‘skinhead’ and I heard subsequently, that all the ‘skinheads' that did interviews in the newspapers, got beaten up by other short haired boys. 
But I think the Wolverhampton kids as well as ‘skinheads’ from other places and parts of London too, thought beating up Pakistanis was the thing to do, whereas the first generation were far too interested in themselves and their clothes and wouldn’t have been interested in that. I suppose it was 1970 by now because it first came in the papers in '69.  Kevin Rowland.

Original 7 inch singles supplied by dj, Johnny H. Goldman - johnnyhgoldman@googlemail.com

Rooftop Suntrap: Shoredich House

Thursday, 25 June 2009 Comments Off

The folk at Shoreditch House seem genuinely surprised by the popularity of their new roof garden.
Opened this week, it's expanse of understated loungers and artificial turf are as stunning and as impressive as the neighbouring pool and rooftop restaurant.
Right now, it's something of a suntrap overlooking a cityscape which resembles an epic Macarno set - all construction cranes, metal frames and blocks of grey concrete.
With a dedicated bar,  a dinning-come-meeting area and a special roof garden menu all secluded behind a deceptively nondescript wooden door, it's been described as an oasis within an oasis.
A perfect place to observe the rapid emergence of the new Shoreditch  - both at close quarters and afar.

Kostas Seremitis vs HOP. The legend continues...

Saturday, 20 June 2009 Comments Off

His thing is comic books and comic book heroes - those larger-than-life figures who occupy the adventure fantasies of boyhood and have carried the weight of the American Dream on their shoulders for over half a century.  
A Boston kid, he was bullied at school and saw art as a cathartic escape; it was then that his fascination for comic book superheroes was forged. Like many of the characters in his work, Kostas Seremitis doesn't get the idea of compromise or waver from his mission. In fact, in art terms he's something of a purist. 
Over the years, this mild mannered New York based painter and sculptor has himself become something of a legend - so, when he collaborates on a series of t-shirts with new clothing brand HOP it's worth taking notice.
A collection of three covers all exploring true Kostas themes and references, these limited edition t-shirts play with notions of celebrity and cultural ownership and also reflect the continued evolution of this brilliant artists work. All that, and they're ridiculously collectible too.

HOP is available exclusively at The Hideout.

Bing Crosby - raiding his wardrobe, not his reputation.

Thursday, 18 June 2009 Comments Off

During his lifetime, Bing Crosby was a pioneer in the recording industry, in the worlds of golf and horse racing as well as an international box office record breaker. If you haven't seen High Society, you haven't lived. If you haven't heard White Christmas, you haven't been born. Touring extensively during WW2, his contribution to the morale of the US troops was heralded as second to none. These days however, it's hard if not impossible to retrieve  his legacy from the scandal and tragedy that emerged after his death. So why try? To bite a line from the great Bard, we come to praise Bing's wardrobe, not to bury it.

There's Bing looking like a prime candidate for a Free&Easy spread...How cool does he look - all Cadet Ivy-like in his blazer, khakis and white shoes....
Obviously Bing knew a thing or two about sportswear. He was part-owner of baseball team the Pittsburgh Pirates and an avid golfer. He helped popularise golf across America and in fact died just after winning a round of 18 holes.  Check out this rough'n'ready combo - felt hat, sweatshirt and neckerchief; that's the definition of standard, right there.
And look below - Bing on a rugged Ivy tip; a pair of pants and a plaid flannel shirt matched with logger boots (Whites, no doubt) - made all the more fresh by the tie and clip. The tilted hat nails the look perfectly...Pure Urban Americana circa 2009.
The godfather of crooners manages to add a smooth edge to this Levi's 506xx jacket and field shirt ensemble. It's common knowledge that Bing was both jazzy and country, but he was also a little bit rock'n'roll. The Ampex Model 200 tape machine customised by Les Paul to invent multi-track recording was in fact a gift from the singer. Eager to pre-record his radio shows, Bing had invested $50,000 to develop the fledgling company's broadcast technology and launch the first commercial reel-to-reel tape recorder.
One of America's most popular and influential cultural icons, his detractors would have us remember him as an unfaithful husband and an abusive father. But it's also hard to deny that Bing Crosby, Mr Crosby as he would often insist on being called, had a few wardrobe hits worth mentioning too.

Wallabees: Idiot proof

Tuesday, 16 June 2009 Comments Off

Some people get it some people don't. Simon F, a very elegant man in his own way, probably still doesn't get it. We were in New York; he was there to help launch Time Out New York and I was there doing pre-release press for Vernon Reid's solo Lp Mistaken Identity. It was sunny and we were strolling down Broadway when I saw a stack of Clark's Wallabees in the window of a shoe shop.
I couldn't believe my luck. Back in London, Wallabees were hard if not near impossible to find and so to discover them in ample supply was amazing. I walked into the store and instantly tried a pair on... Simon, a fellow Londoner, began to stagger about the shop with laughter. You can't be serious, he said, they're ridiculous...You're not actually going to buy those things - you look like an idiot.

That was 1995. Thankfully Wallabees have been readily available in the UK for some time now; I guess Simon's seen more than his fair share of idiots since then - and - since Clark's celebrate 50 years of the Wallabee in 2010, I suspect he'll be seeing plenty more next year.

Miles Davis Neckerchief

Friday, 12 June 2009 Comments Off

Not sure how it came about but I've found myself wearing a neckerchief of late. I think it's one of those subliminal influences - perhaps the result of looking at shots of Miles Davis circa '59.
Miles was at the time flexing on an Ivy tip; like his music he was taking a particular style and twisting it up.
Turns out I'm not the only one on this look right now - Kev BestShopEver and Graham the Guilder have been spotted with similar styles of neck wear.
I've come to realise the functional benefit of a neckerchief; it keeps your neck warm in the cold and yet cool and dry in the heat. In this ever-changing summer daze when it can be raining, sunny and cloudy depending on which side of the street you're own, a neckerchief seems both funky and functional.
Despite its simplicity, for some reason the neckerchief is an accessory which manages at times to inspire a level of ridicule from friends and passers-by; on such occasions, So What instantly comes to mind.

the wheel thing

Wednesday, 10 June 2009 Comments Off

Clocked this really cool, understated bike the other day. It's an interesting mix of crate, cruiser and fixy. Turns out the owner is looking to sell...be interesting to see what he replaces this beauty with.

Ghariokwu Lemi: Art's Own Kind

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Ghariokwu Lemi is the man behind the album sleeves we most associate with Fela Kuti. Together they created a sonic and visual language of cultural resistance. Still based in Nigeria, he arrived in east London late last week.
Fela was a mass of contradictions, but within his work he dealt with provocative subjects, many of which still resonate today - white colonisation of black Africa, the corruption of Governments and the use of chemicals to bleaching or lighten ones skin are three which immediately come to mind.  
It was for the 25th anniversary of Stussy that Lemi produced these original pieces which were eventually realised on t-shirts. Tonight saw the launch of a major exhibition of Lemis' work  in East London - called Art's Own Kind and focused on his Afro Beat period. With about 400 people in attendance it was a huge success - helped in no small measure by the live appearence of fellow Afro Beat pioneer drummer Tony Allen. 
Organised by Punch - a dynamic arts organisation based in Birmingham - with a little help from Edge 09 (myself and Paul Bradshaw), the exhibition is part of a much larger Punch festival called Bass. 

www.richmix.co.org
runs through July 6th.

Shawn Stussy - the adventure continues...

Tuesday, 9 June 2009 Comments Off

Some people would be afraid to burst the bubble, reluctant to risk putting themselves on the line and dent the myth and mystery which has surrounded them for so long. Not so  Shawn Stussy, who, with his compelling and revealing blog somehow seems only to grow in legend and stature. Here he invites the reader into his previously exclusive world; a visit to New York with the family, a trip to the sea, a poignant reminiscence, a hot girl, a brilliant sunset, the workshop before and the workshop after...all appear in this blog. 


Then there's the shoes and the new brand. S Double. Ever so often a pair of shoes appear - samples, tasters of the new and evolving collection.  Combining a classic work wear feel - in some ways harking back to the postal workers shoe by Red Wing   - with a skate/punk (and preppy) influence   This was image was posted on Saturday; the shoes, part of a diverse collection, are simply called white bucks...That simple phrase sums up a whole, complete picture for those who grew up in a post war into Kennedy era America. 

The Shawn Stussy adventure continues. In a way the blog demystifies the creative process of the new label, and is a unique opportunity to glimpse some of the personal and meaningful narratives which run through the whole collection. 

http://shawnstussy.blogspot.com/

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