Archive for September 2009

Hurry Up & Wait by Tribble Mancenido

Tuesday, 29 September 2009 Comments Off

When Frank and Tracy told me they were off on an uncompromising journey across the east coast of America as bona fide, load-carrying truck drivers, I expected the images they'd produce to be full of cool, grizzly looking characters all road-weary from the burden of being Americas modern day frontiersmen.
What I didn't expect were the breathtaking portraits and documentry images which are gradually emerging as a result.
The couple spent what amounts to a full year on the road; them and their huge eighteen-wheel truck.
Living out of the truck, they gave up their home in the Jersey green belt - showering at truck stops, sleeping in the cab, taking pictures of what they saw and some of the people they encountered.
Truck culture comes to dominate their lives; they inhabit a world totally alien to our own.
Partly, the strength of these images comes from a unique empathy; they see what truckers see because they are truckers. Ferrying loads from port to depot and wherever their cargo dictates, missing many of the comforts most of us take for granted...
...and living a routine which is unforgiving, relentless and often dangerous. It's a level of personal risk and sacrifice fewer and fewer artists are willing to make these days.
With Hurry Up & Wait, what we come away with is a number of powerful and contrasting narratives; from beauty and iconic splendour to pathos and vulnerability...in short, an epic and also intimate vision of modern America.

Looking at these images, what I realise is that the real heroes in this story are the photographers behind them.

Hurry Up & Wait: Tribble Mancenido
www.tribblemancenido.com

NKU: Don Cherry

Sunday, 27 September 2009 Comments Off

Never Knowingly Underdressed...Don Cherry: When people believe in boundaries, they become part of them.

Resistance RT @ Present London

Tuesday, 22 September 2009 Comments Off

Sports wear, work wear, military wear; for some they're the destination, for others the point of departure.

Paris based Ramdane Touhami has let his imagination take flight for his Japanese-made menswear line, Resistance RT.

It's as if he threw away the rule book and came up with three design categories all his own: let's see, get away with and I dare you.

Let's see - a triple breasted trench style coat with contrasting plaid buttons...a Woolrich-inspired gilet jacket with satin lining...a Spring Court collaborated tennis shoe with peppermint scented insoles...

He even gets away with this amazing stadium jacket...No doubt a big hit among fans of Donkey Polo - the sport he recently invented. Try it. I dare you.

Resistance RT has just landed at Present - London.


http://arkitipintel.com/2009/08/13/donkey-polo/

Present: 140, Shoreditch High Street

Karl Lagerfeld - a profile knit from tweets

Tuesday, 15 September 2009 Comments Off

Been reading Karl Lagerfeld's Twitter page.

Believe it or not, I love rap.
If Karl was at my school back in the day, he'd be that weird kid everybody got on with but nobody quite understood. You know, the guy in the class who everyone went to for advice - they all knew he could figure stuff out for them, but they could never really figure him out?

I am a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes -- it's about all kinds of change.

He'd wear clothes everyone would say was out there at first and then six month later, they'd end up dressing that way themselves...

Don't look to the approval of others for your mental stability.

They'd go to the local disco assuming he was too left field or uncool to even go out - meanwhile he'd be hanging out in real night clubs in the centre of town...or at home reading Camus.

A respectable appearance is sufficient to make people more interested in your soul.

His teachers would find his quietness a little unnerving - as if he was humouring them by his presence. Maybe one teacher would even voice their concern; telling him they thought he was self-contained. If so, it would be years before he realised this was not intended as a compliment.

Forgiveness is too easy. I can forget by indifference, but not forgive. I prefer revenge.

He'd be kind of popular and yet a real loner at the same time; enjoying his isolation and the world it allowed him to create for himself.

I have no scene. I go everywhere. I adapt.

This of course is total conjecture, a mere fantasy or, as it says on the ticket, a profile knit from tweets. But such kids are not uncommon; perhaps you too were like our young Karl.

http://twitter.com/KARL_LAGERFELD

NKU: Clark Gable

Monday, 14 September 2009 Comments Off

Never Knowingly Underdressed...Clark Gable, my dear.

Arnold Palmer: The King is 80

Friday, 11 September 2009 Comments Off

OK so it was yesterday, but it's not too late to raise a glass of iced tea and lemonade and drink a toast to the great Arnold Palmer - celebrating his eightieth birthday.
Palmer is a legend not only for being one of the greatest golfers in history but for being one of the coolest too - back in the early sixties what he brought to golf was a different type of gentlemanly behaviour, the kind of attitude that non-golfers, blue collar folk could relate to and be inspired by. Understandably, his ardent fans known as Arnie's Army crowned him The King.
A working class kid who bought and still owns the golf course where his dad once worked, Palmer's mass appeal was capitalised on by the great Mark McCormack. They originally met in the early fifties as kids playing college golf. McCormack was a better businessman than he was a golfer.
Recognised by many as the godfather of sports marketing, called the super agent McCormack was the man behind the giant talent and production agency IMG; Palmer was his first client. Other IMG clients have included Bjorn Borg, Pele, Kate Moss, Pete Sampras and Tiger Woods.
The McCormack/Palmer partnership was so successful and pioneering that the golfer earned way more from licencing and endorsements as a celebrity than he ever did from winning numerous championships. It also defined the shape of sports sponsorship as we know it today.
While most people imagine that Palmer's greatest non-golf legacy is his ice tea drink, his branded apparel is also worthy of a mention. Also known as Arnie's the brand still exists on license in Japan to Renown, producing primarily fashion-orientated womenswear.

It's still possible to find some neat vintage pieces elsewhere too - great jackets and polo shirts. Like Penguin a few years ago, it's one of those brands with an amazing heritage and huge marketing potential waiting to be revived globally.

Mark McNairy's Bass Weejun lookbook

Sunday, 6 September 2009 Comments Off

As you probably know, Mark McNairy has done a Made In America collection for loafer giants, Bass.
Looking backward to go forwards, the line is a testimony to his depth of knowledge and passion for the brand.
As with his own brand, New Amsterdam and his work with J Press, McNairy shows an amazing ability to cut away to the very essence of a thing, bringing to the fore real and often unexpected qualities in the design.

These are a few pages from his look book, a one off, hand-made document illustrating his hand-sewn masterpieces.

Look carefully and you'll see a nod (and a name-check!) to Mr Rowland in his Don't Stand Me Down period.
and a nod to Garmsvilles very own Loafersins...

...although who this Paul geezer is I'm not quite sure.

NKU: Mr Mort

Tuesday, 1 September 2009 Comments Off




Never Knowingly Underdressed...Mr Mort @ Magic, Las Vegas, August 31 2009.

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