Nanamica @ Present London

Thursday, 7 October 2010 Comments Off

Early last year I wrote a mag feature on high performance classics. Menswear at its best has always taken its lead from sports or the military or workwear; even the most unlikely pieces within a standard wardrobe like a tweed jacket, a polo shirt or a trench coat started off as one of these three things.

Even the bowler hat began its life as a piece of workwear.

The article was about how designers are taking technical fabrications and applying them to clothes which at first glance look like well-made classics -

Errolson Hughs' Shadow Project for Stone Island, Casely Hayfords' British/ Japanese collection alongside brands like Arc´teryx Veilence and of course North Face Purple.

Car designers have long been heading that way of course - a ton of hi-tech hardware packed within slick but very familiar looking cars. They figured out long ago that we like our technology sugar-coated by reassuring elements of the past.



All this came to mind when I saw the current Nanamica collection yesterday.


They have two stores in Japan and are now gracing the rails of Present London.



Their current product boasts very traditional silhouettes - parkas, duffel coats, windbreakers, down vests, field jackets - all in mature and subdued hues – colourways you could ask for in any Savile Row tailors without fear of embarrassment: Black Watch plaid, heather grey, mono-tweed, Glen check, black...


On the surface these are the sort of items you'd clock in the movies, classic films like In The Heat Of The Night and Bullitt; their cut is reminiscent of the mid-to-late sixties.

Packed within them however is a level of fabric functionality which was never possible back then, courtesy of Gore-tex, Pertex and Cordura.

Even their knitwear is loaded with gear. Their patchwork vest, shawl collar cardigan and argyle cardigan are all thermally enhanced using Proartec Thermal Pro fabric.


They term their design approach 'utility sports'. The overall feel is a kind of tailored tech, well made, rugged and adaptable - qualities which make them incredibly true to their all but forgotten sports, work and military origins.



This design approach of course is where outdoor brands like LL Bean, Patagonia, Filson, Woolrich and Pendleton can potentially maintain a contemporary relevance without obscuring their classic Americana roots - likewise British heritage brands such as Burberry, Aquascutum and Barbour.

It's no surprise that Nanamica have already worked with North Face Purple Label, Helly Hansen, Champion sweats and Woolrich Woolen Mills.

Fortunately for us when it comes to Nanamicas' own line we don't have to make any long expeditions to find them.

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