Archive for January 2011

Richard Brautigan: born January 30th 1935...

Sunday, 30 January 2011 Comments Off

It was my friend Tim from photography duo Tim & Barry who introduced me to the writing of Richard Brautigan.

He figured I'd like it. He was right.

There's a simplicity and clarity about his writing which I love. His detracting publishing editor would eventually label him a naif for that very reason.


People would like to label him a hippie writer, part of the counterculture generation of the late sixties, a star of the San Francisco poetry scene.

While he may have been in that scene, I don't think his work was a product of it. Certainly not Trout Fishing In America, which was written in 1961.

A cult hero in Japan, some people would say Brautigan led a colourful life; I suspect he would have replied something like - yeah, most of it black or at best desperate shades of grey.

His childhood was spent in abject poverty. He didn't know his real father. His father claims not to have been aware of his existence until after sons death. His mother fell into a series of destructive or disastrous relationships giving the young Richard a number of half brothers and sisters along the way and never moving too far from starvation.

At one point, after he'd graduated from college, left home and moved to San Francisco he was so hungry he threw a rock through a police station window - hoping to get arrested and fed. Instead he got fined $25. Then, when the police clocked his behaviour as erratic, he got taken to a mental hospital and given electric shock treatment.

Maybe the naivety in some of the books is a kind of survival mechanism, a multi-layered reality alternate to the one experienced in his own dark and depression-ridden life.

But it's easy to speculate, right?


Brautigan was born on this day in 1935. He committed suicide - shot himself in his own home, looking out at the Ocean in September 84.

Here's an extract from Trout Fishing In America. It's from the chapter titled The Kool-Aid Wino.










Denim Dreams 1 - Eyes on Headlight

Thursday, 27 January 2011 Comments Off



I love my job(s) but on certain days I just want to be a vintage garms dealer.

Take Pendleton Dave. OK, so occasionally he has to deal with not-knowing people who pick up a vintage piece and say Have you got this in any other sizes? But I'm not talking about that part of the job, of course.

I'm talking about the unearthing part, the discovery part of the gig.

Imagine the buzz Dave must have had when he found these - a tangible, direct connection to the past,virtually untouched for decades.


Going beyond fashion, taste and style they tell us about how people lived and worked, struggled, invented and progressed - to now.

Probably made in the late 1920's, Headlight was an east coast workwear brand who kitted out railroad workers. They had a location, for example, in Detroit.


Belt loops, crotch rivet, suspender buttons and a cinch-back, maybe these overalls are a deluxe model - or, as people moved away from braces to belts, perhaps they're an indication of workwear in transition. Maybe they're both.


That's what's so intriguing about them - and Dave's job.

The hardest part of the job for me would be to let stuff like these jeans go - no matter how much someone was willing to pay.

Dream on Jules, dream on, I hear you say.


Check out Dave blog...and those jeans. ragtopvintage



Florsheim Get Frivolous

Tuesday, 25 January 2011 Comments Off



Do not adjust your screen.

Yes they are the real deal - genuine Florsheim wingtips, aka Kenmoor brogues - the shoe Ivy Leaguers fawn over, waxing lyrical at their splendour.


And who can blame them? They're an amazing shoe, elegant yet robust - a true design classic.


These are part of the brands Fall 2011 collab with Duckie Brown. They're a real test of your true Ivy League metal - pun intended.



On one side you have the traditionalists; purists - foaming at the mouth, thinking that these iconic symbols of American style should come in only a handful of natural leather colours - and black.

Some of these guys even perceive ox blood as a shade too far.


Then there are those who come from the world of fashion.

They're so busy imagining all the clothes they can match these rich colours with that the whole tradition thing is lost on them.


And finally there are those, perhaps a minority among Ivy lovers, who see these, like the other shoes in the special collection as keeping true to an important aspect of Ivy style - a playful combination of frivolous colour and serious construction.

Me? I luv 'em.


Gilles Peterson's Worldwide Awards: a poignant tribute to the past, the present and the future

Sunday, 23 January 2011 Comments Off



Gilles Peterson held the annual Worldwide Awards last night. A very special evening.

Jerry Dammers was given this years John Peel Award for his contribution to music.

Jerry and band played live too; they debuted a radical reworking of Captain Beefheart's Frowland. No joke.

Other highlights?

Hanging out with Gilles, Earl Zinger and Dr Mandi Martin for a hot minute as they heaped praise on Iron Maiden(!)...watching Four Tet perform...seeing Flying Lotus visibly moved at winning Album of the Year...and the look of shock and awe on the faces of the audience when the Spatial AKA walked through the crowd in full costume and took the stage - all the while playing their instruments.

Another memorable moment was the film piece featuring the song Square Biz by Teena Marie. It paid tribute to some of the artists who past away last year including James Moody, Steve Reid, Captain Beefheart and of course Teena Marie herself.



If you've not had the chance to see (or should I say experience) Jerry Dammers' Spatial AKA here's a clip from their appearance on the Later show last year.




Like the invitation, the awards themselves were designed by emerging artist Josephine Ada Chinenye Chime and are beautiful.




An eventful day promises and eventful year

Thursday, 20 January 2011 Comments Off

You don't need the weatherman to know which way the winds blowing...or at least I didn't yesterday.

I spent an afternoon in the West End going about my daily operations and bumping into some familiar faces...

It was about noon. Walking past Tiffany's I bumped into Mr Reggie Yates, wearing an amazing pair of suede loafers. He gave me a heads-up about a vintage watch shop nearby - walked me to the window at which point my jaw dropped. A beautiful selection of Omega, Rolex and (pre-Tag) Heuers.

Truth is I was very surprised to see him. I always imagine when he's not doing TV or radio he's abroad somewhere - taking amazing images like these.


Then I bumped into Phoebe Collings-James - an incredible young artist doing really challenging work. She's just finished a beautiful installation piece. Right now she's planning it's first gallery screening.




As planned, I meet up with Doug Astroman and fellow traveller Kaoru. Doug's been working on a project with Mantisworld - the first name you need to think of when it comes to ecologically sound, organic, fair trade T-shirts. He's just completed their new catalogue / magazine - on which I also worked.


Not long after, we bump into Zainab Jama- erstwhile i-D Magazine editorial staffer, now freelance journalist and co-club runner of the epic Deviation with Benji B and Judah (aka Sharp Jude).

She told me about the weekend gig they're having next month. I guess it coincides with their second anniversary.




...and superstylist Stephen Mann - a proper gent. He's looking forward to a few days in Paris...I'm looking forward to seeing if his trip results in any choice purchases on his blog thenonplace.com



It was about four o'clock when I bumped into Ben Reardon - another ex-i-D heavyweight, now the main man at GQ Style.

The first issue under his stewardship is due out in March. Very exciting: from what I've gleaned over the past few months, it's gonna be a really refreshing look at modern menswear and men's attitudes.


Then I bumped in Yuri. I've seen Yuri grow up from a cool skate kid working at Bond, then at Gimme Five to this smart, and still cool cultural conduit.

In London only for a few days, he relocated to his native Marseilles last year. He just did an interview for a future issue of Clark Magazine - who in fact celebrate their 10th anniversary this year.



Then, turning round a corner into Covent Garden, I bump into the legendary Shawn Lee.

Turns out he's studio is not too far from there. He's working on the soundtrack for a film documentary about the joys and struggles of a young basketball team.

Shawn is also of course a major league songwriter...this song is one of my favs...check out Shawn's cameo appearance as the DJ.





Just before I went home I bumped into Steve Williamson - one the country's most original and progressive sax players and composers.

I can count the number of times we've bump into each other in the past twenty years on one hand (four) and yet every time it happens we somehow manage to pick up from where we last left off. We spent a couple of hours just catching up.

I can't wait to hear some of the new stuff he's been working on...but in the meantime, I'll happily settle for this improvised session from a couple of years back.





After a day like today, I'm sure any weatherman worthy of the name would agree that this is going to be an interesting and eventful year.

I THINK UR A CONTRA / AND I THINK THAT YOU'VE LIED

Thursday, 13 January 2011 Comments Off


It's the stuff soaps are made of.

Only it's true.

& it's happening now.

You know the coup; Vampire Weekend use the image of a cute girl on the cover of Contra: a WASPish Wet Dream in a Ralph-La shirt.

Wow! Who is she?! When was it taken?! What an amazing image!

You can almost hear the band and their label in a chorus of mutual back-slapping, cheered by the global intrigue surrounding this enigmatic cover art.


That is until the mysterious WASPish Wet Dream comes to life in the form of Ann Kirsten Kennis - now 27 years older and ready to heap 2 million dollars worth of woe on whoever gave the permission to use her image without her permission.

Turns out the Polaroid was taken as a head shot during a casting the young Ann Kirsten Kennis attended when she was modelling back in 83.

Turns out she and her family are (understandably) upset about the portrayal of her as a Wet Dream - WASPish or not.

Sure enough backslapping turns to finger-pointing, cheering turns to accusations, dream turns to nightmare.

The most obvious fall guy, the guy who delivered the image to the band - Mr Tod Brody - somehow disappears, fades into the distance, creating an enigma all his own.

Wow! Where is he?! What does he have to say?! Is he really a con man?

Almost 6 months pass. By late last year the legal reps for the band, their label and Ms Ann Kirsten Kennis are so frustrated by his ability to elude them that a summons is served on him via email and the US Mail.

But now the chase is off.
Mr Tod has materialised waving some fingers of his own - accusing Ms Ann Kirsten Kennis of fraud and the band of false claims.

He says he never agreed to give the band a signed release for use of the image...and he never gave them a release signed by someone he said was the girl in the picture...but he does however maintain that he is the author of the image in question.

And so begins another episode of Contra.

Confused? You should be.


Vampire Weekend will be performing in front of a live audience:



The Ivy Look book launch. subtitle: don't mention Absolute Beginners

Saturday, 8 January 2011 Comments Off


If you want to get into a heated argument at a party, try defending Julien Temple's film version of Absolute Beginners. Trust me.

It was a few months ago; me and Dr Mandi Martin braved the wind and rain to attend the launch of the Ivy Look...

...an amazing homage to the British take on classic mid-century American menswear.

It mentions Garmsville and I was curious to meet the guys who compiled the book and of course thank them.

I was nervous. Cynically, I’d imagined a gathering of well-groomed, badly dressed men, like in one of those blogs you come across with guys wearing flashy waistcoats going to great lengths to explain the correct way to button a shirt or loosen a tie.

You know the type.

But I was wrong. There was John Simons, John Rushton, Paul Simons -John’s son, Jeff Garet - a gathering of really great people.

Along with the guys who wrote the book, there was an assortment of other people whom I’d never met before or who I’d last seen maybe ten, fifteen years ago at John’s store in Russell Street.

No flashy waistcoats, just very understated and broad variations of a great look.

I felt extremely shabby, but glad to be there.

Initially everyone was incredibly welcoming and approachable. There was wine and some jazz being played in the background and a really warm atmosphere surrounding this intimate, pre-Christmas book launch.

It’s only now in hindsight that I can see where it all started going wrong.

A group of us – about five – were discussing style influences. I said books like On The Road and Absolute Beginners had a big impact on me as a kid – that in fact, I wrote my dissertation on them at college.

One of the guys said he felt a little embarrassed - he hadn’t read Absolute Beginners yet…But I hear the film is really, really bad, he went on to say

Everyone else agreed and laughed at what a disaster the movie turned out to be. I actually liked it: I said. One of lost great British films to be made, I said, flippantly. I think there’ll come a time when people will revisit that film and see how great it was.



Silence.

It was as if someone had pressed PAUSE on the whole proceedings, while everyone took stock of my bombshell.

Then someone elected to press PLAY and turn the volume up: What part of that film was good? And what do you mean, great British movie? -

It was a very tall, immaculately dressed guy, who, it turns out was a university lecturer - history and popular culture, I think. I realised then that my casual remark was not going to go unchallenged.

So I said, I hated it when it came out too! - trying to prove that I wasn’t completely nuts. But I saw it again on TV when I was in New York a few years ago and had to completely rethink it.

Why was that? He said, sharply.

I realised that the film wasn’t just about the summer of 1958 and the first ever Notting Hill riots; it was also a celebration of British culture – the diversity which began to develop after that point.

Go on, someone else said.

Well, it featured so many people – real people who weren’t involved in making films but came from club or street style culture – people like Chris Sullivan who did a lot of the casting, Mark Powell who did so much of the wardrobe, dance sequences from The Jazz Defektors. Loads of guys you’d see in clubs at the time were actually in the film – people like Slim Gaillard, Christo Tolera, Masha from Torso. Most of these people were real beneficiaries in a way of the diversity that came about post 1958, post the black shirts, post the riots.

But what has that got to do with the film itself? he said.


When I realised that what Temple was trying to do was celebrate a very British culture and movie tradition – one which had nothing to do with Hollywood and everything to do with stuff like Tin Pan Alley, British Variety, Ealing Comedies and our fascination for American culture - then it became easier to understand why people hated it so much at the time; the film was going against the tide. Remember by the time it came out the British film industry was on it’s knees – Goldcrest – the production company went bust soon after this film release.

He said flatly: People hated the film because it was badly directed, badly acted and was a musical.


People at the time hated it because we as an audience were better versed in American style humour and drama. In that respect it totally failed to meet our expectations. But what he was trying to recapture was the humour and aesthetic of Elstree and Pinewood, not Warner Brothers and 20th Century Fox… I said.

And how did you figure that? he said, still way off satisfied.

For me the clue was all these actors and cameos – people like Lionel Blair, Sylvia Syms and Una Stubbs - they connect the film to other movies like Summer Holiday, the Ladykillers, St Trinians and Passport To Pimlico – films which share a uniquely British, post-war identity. You know, the soundtrack was another clue – Paul Weller, Jerry Dammers, Ray Davies, David Bowie, Sade – even Smiley Culture – real exponents of a kind of Britishness.

But the main character – the guy who played Colin was shit, he said, obviously frustrated by this point.


Maybe – or maybe he was just playing the common man, the boy next door and we expected much more than that at the time. Cliff Richard, Billy Fury, Tommy Steel – they weren’t great actors either, but that’s not what it was about.

He was still cool to the idea, but I could see he was at least beginning to give it some consideration – so I figured I'd quit while I was ahead…

Hey, I’m not saying I’d want to watch it again, I lied, I’m just saying the things which made it seem so bad at the time could in fact be what makes it great now…But I could be wrong…

Maybe I should look at it again, he said, also I suspect lying.

...



...Homeward.

You had to mention Absolute Beginners! laughed Dr Martin as we left.

I know; I just couldn’t help it, I said, deciding there and then never mention the film again.



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