Archive for April 2011

Everyone's talking about...Utile

Saturday, 30 April 2011 Comments Off


New UK based menswear brand Utile prove that basics don’t have to be basic after all.


Three styles feature in their debut collection. Jackets and shirts, high on finish and loaded with versatility.

Wear them over or under, fitted or oversized; there’s no such thing as a wrong answer as Utile seem happy to let the wearer come to those conclusions...maybe that's why so many people are finding their understated design aesthetic so exciting.

Check out this debut collection on their website. There's also a series of short film interviews - the first of which features yours truly explaining how I came to a few basic conclusions of my own.

utileclothing.com


Odd Future @ Village Underground

Friday, 29 April 2011 Comments Off

There's Odd Future on stage at the Village Underground a few hours ago.

Started with Tyler wearing his trademark balaclava and then a mask of Her Majesty the Queen (of course). Ended unpredictably and rather unfortunately with Tyler asking for his 'Preme Posse cap - a gift from his boy Earl - to be returned.

In between was one of those memorable hype gigs - a moment in time like PE at The Brixton Academy and N.E.R.D at the Astoria.



Be interesting to see what happens when GOBLIN drops in a couple of weeks (which should not be confused with this clip, BTW).



check out oddfuture.com for part two...


inventory issue 04

Wednesday, 27 April 2011 Comments Off


What Inventory Magazine has is a kind of seriousness which is often lacking in most men's style publications - the notion that there's something truthful and honest in the making of men's clothes and that should be reflected in the making of the magazine.

This issue is no exception. The cover(s) story features a piece about my mate Mark McNairy and fellow designer Daiki Suzuki. This summer sees Daiki's last collection for Woolrich Wollen Mills. The feature discusses the brand and looks at the handover process as Mark takes over future design duties.

It also features a piece by me on the myths and misdemeanors surrounding the Harrington jacket with some valued insight from none other than John Simons.





sunspel take the sports route

Friday, 22 April 2011 Comments Off

The transition from underwear to outerwear is best facilitated by sport - something the guys at Sunspel have figured out in their ongoing bid to reposition the label as a modern menswear brand.

This film's a perfect vehicle for the brand - after all they did introduce the boxer short to the UK in 1947.

Starring Repton boy turned Premier model Ryan Pickard it features the club and some of its more photogenic members.

Repton's an amazing place, the real deal. Some of its roughness and old East London-ness is missing here, replaced by soft focus headshots and cutaways - stuff usually reserved for the likes of L'Uomo Vogue. Understandably.

What is perfectly replicated however is the age-old tradition of going to Pellicci's after training.





NKU: Ol' Blue Eyes

Sunday, 17 April 2011 Comments Off

I crave variety, and I'm delighted when a lady has the imagination to come up with something different. I've never known a woman who could select neckties I really like. I think any gal who could do that, who could pick out a dozen ties I would really like, would pass the supreme test.


Frank Sinatra, Never Knowingly Underdressed

british remains, the royal wedding & the big tie-in

Wednesday, 13 April 2011 Comments Off

A hyper-spectacle, The Royal Wedding is about is relevant to the quality of our lives as the colour of Lady Gaga's lipstick. And yet there it is: headline news.


This product by upcoming brand British Remains engages with the spectacle and turns it on it's head: literally - asking us to recognise that this pseudo-event is only as real and serious as we allow it to be.

The three pieces - two t-shirts and a handkerchief - are also a commentary on the tradition of The Big Tie-in.

This wedding isn't just a grand money-making scheme - an enema for the country's bunged up economy. Royal wedding memorabilia allows us to feel involved, demonstrate our enthusiasm for the lovely couple and show our support of all things British.

It's also our way of investing in the flimsy notion that despite the harsh realities of the times, dreams really can come true.




To quote the company:


I'm wondering if there isn't a place in the brain, located somewhere near our fight and flight responses called distraction. Maybe neurologists figured this out years ago, but we've been too distracted to notice.


britishremains.co.uk



Exclusive: Story Deli is Back

Tuesday, 12 April 2011 Comments Off


For now the sign says the coffee & the cake box, but that'll change as soon as they get the pizza oven in, up and running.


The guys from Story Deli have re-emerged and relocated a few hundred yards away from their original site, from which they disappeared suddenly and unannounced a few weeks ago.


This new space is smaller and certainly has less passing trade, but no one's complaining.

Since 2004 the Deli was a popular fixture on Drays Walk, just off Brick Lane. Even when the main street began to morph into a mini version of Camden Market, people still travelled miles to sample the Deli's unique pizza and equally inspiring interior.


The Deli was in truth just a natural extension if their shop, which in turn was just an natural extension of their style and interests.

If you imagine a modernist approach to Provence lifestyle, informed by issues of sustainability and fashion, then you might get a vague picture of their original store, selling vintage and recycled product including clothing, jewellery and boxes.


The boxes, which double as storage and seating became something of a signature in both spaces.

In the beginning the Deli started selling a wide range of food, but it quickly become obvious that the organic pizza - using imported flour from a region in Italy and bottled water as part of it's recipe - was the thing people demanded most.

While many stores and galleries came and went and the areas' popularity increased beyond recognition, the Deli was a seemingly stable part of the diversity of the off-street, loaded with character and individuality.


Then, suddenly, not long ago, the unimaginable happened. The Deli disappeared as if over night.


Now they're back in a space just a stones' throw from Shoreditch House, Les Trois Garcons and Redchurch Street.

With easy access from Shoreditch High Street Station, it's likely that they'll be repeating the success they had on Drays Walk in no time at all - once the oven arrives, of course.


StoryBox / PizzaCafe / The Scooter Shop / 66 Scalter St. E1 6HR / info@storydeli.com



pokit...the cowboys are coming!

Thursday, 7 April 2011 Comments Off


This is what we know: Pokit are kings of the tailored suit, fiends for the structured silhouette and precious about shape and form.

What we didn't know, 'til now, is that they're putting that keen eye for detail into a brand new denim range...called 7ft Cowboy.

Here's Bayo giving a breakdown on a sample from the new range. Hold on to your hat!


Stay tuned for more news of its imminent arrival.



fixed magazine 07 - a knock out issue

Wednesday, 6 April 2011 Comments Off


Just met Andy Fixed Gear for coffee. First proper glimpse of Fixed Mag issue 07. It features the Red Bull Mini Drome competition which took place in January, hosted by artist and FGL original Conrad Johnson. An incredible event.


The cover of the mag shows an aerial shot of the track, very reminiscent of the classic Muhammad Ali / Cleveland Williams TKO image from 1966 - intentionally. Just how Andy and Jonathan managed to get that amazing shot is a story in itself.


Team GBs Olympic Uniform

Sunday, 3 April 2011 Comments Off

I would have liked to see The Duffer of St George supply the official opening ceremony uniforms for the London Games. Not Next.


The brand providing the clothing for the 2012 Olympics should have symbolic and sartorial clout behind their selection.


Stella McCartney is designing Team GB's sports kit. She’s a high profile designer committed to ecologically informed fashion. She's also a Beatles' daughter.

Bob Marley's eldest daughter Cedella is designing the Jamaican teams' gear with Puma. RalphLa are doing the honours for the US Team. Canada have one of their oldest companies, Hudson's Bay, at their service.


Why Duffer? Their clothing has helped shape youth style in this city for almost thirty years, influencing brands the world over. They helped set the template for the rest to follow.

Theirs is an authentic street style swagger - inspired by vintage American sportswear, worn with a UK edge.

But it's not about heritage, culture or even sport. It's about money. Next are paying £10 million for the privilege of dressing Team GB, the ground crew and supporting staff. 5,000 people in all.

Despite the questionable fit, that's an offer the 2012 Olympics Committee couldn't turn their backs on. Unfortunately.

thedufferofstgeorge.com



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